From the narrow lanes of Delhi 6 all the way to over 11,000 feet above sea level, Karim's has made a long journey right to the heart of Leh. Just opened to the public, this popular eatery, which has been serving Mughal food for over a century (since 1913 to be precise), is the latest addition to Leh's culinary scene. Before it, Nathu's sweet shop and restaurant – another Delhi favourite – landed in the Ladakh capital.
Given the flood of tourists to Leh from every possible corner of the world, it was perhaps only a matter of time before popular eateries and food chains such as these made an appearance in the northern-most region of India.
Ladakh's cuisine is vastly different from what Karim's serves but the interest around the Mughlai dishes is evident.
The effort that has been put into the look and feel of the place indicates that Karim's is fully invested in Leh. The expansive restaurant is starkly different from the flagship Karim’s outlet near the crowded Jama Masjid in Delhi, which has consistently invited rave reviews.
The Karim's Leh, too, is next to the Jama Masjid and has well-trained chefs who have been flown in from Delhi.
"Leh may seem like an unlikely choice but not for us. We are confident that there is enough demand for Karim's food in the mountains, not just among tourists but also locals, many of whom have been coming to dine here,” says Mohammed Aslam, manager, Karim's Delhi.
Karim's outlet in Leh. (Photo: Nazia Iqbal)
The biggest challenge for them, he says, was procuring quality raw material, cooking it at an altitude of 11,500 feet and ensuring the quality and taste is maintained. “But our chefs, who have been training for over a month, have ensured that brand Karim's lives up to its name."
Food joints in this tourist hub have mostly been known to serve Ladakhi, Tibetan and Kashmiri cuisine. But now, suddenly, there is a burst of other flavours.
Nathu's, for instance, opened its first outlet in Leh market in August this year. Among others, it is tapping into tourists in search of vegetarian food. There’s a limited number of restaurants that provide a 100 per cent vegetarian experience.
Nathu's restaurant in Leh market. (Photo: Nazia Iqbal)
"There is a great demand for vegetarian food in Leh, and it's still mostly untapped,” says Aziz-ud-din, owner, Nathu's Leh. “We wanted people to have a taste of pure vegetarian food in Leh through a brand that is well-known and well-loved.” He adds that while the concept of popular restaurant chains coming into Ladakh is fresh, “we're certain there will be many more in the future".
Nathu's restaurant in Leh market. (Photo: Nazia Iqbal)
Japanese, Korean and…
Not just North Indian cuisines, new restaurants launched by local residents are experimenting with other kinds of flavours, too.
Besides small food joints that serve the usual momos and thukpa and those that promise comfort dining, Leh city now also offers nearly fine dining experiences.
For instance, there’s Tsas By Dolkhar that serves plant-based experimental cuisine using locally grown ingredients. Or Amigo, which serves authentic Japanese and Korean dishes. Or the freshly opened Café Montagne that promises fresh seafood in a city that’s so far, far away from the sea.
"We have been in the restaurant business for about seven years now. The idea was to bring in comfort food prepared by highly skilled chefs from different parts of the country to Leh,” says Irshad Khan, owner, Café Montagne. “And it was extremely important for us to give our customers a great overall dining experience. It's still fairly new to experiment heavily with the look and feel of a restaurant in Leh. So, it was a dream to do a place that is on par with restaurants we go to in the big cities." The lengths they have gone to do so is evident in the cafe's attention to detail with respect to both food and ambience.
Ladakh is a difficult terrain, and it presents quite a few challenges for business owners. The tourist season, for one, lasts barely six months. And in winters, it's mostly shutters down for businesses. But that might be changing. Karim's, for instance, intends to be open all year round. In minus 15 degree Centigrade, it's a difficult feat but they are hopeful.
The return of the tourist
Tourists are back in Ladakh after two Covid-hit years. So far in 2022, over 400,000 have already turned up – up from 300,000 in the whole of 2021.
Hotels are seeing high occupancy, and taxis and bikes for rent have been in big demand.
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